IN CURATION
Malaysia’s traditional clothingBaju Kurung
Traditional costumes often embody a country’s climate and culture. In this manner, baju kurung, the traditional Malaysian costume, well represents Malaysia’s tropical climate and its prevalent Islamic culture. The costume is divided into two types: the baju kurung for women, and the baju melayu for men. Today’s segment introduces Malaysia’s baju kurung, which is considerably different from hanbok, the national costume of Korea..
An Essential Garment
With its origins stretching back to the 15th century, the baju kurung was born from the confluence of regional trade and the intertwining of cultures found within the Malay Archipelago, along with the importation of textiles from China and India, as well as the spread of Islam to the region.
In modern times, although it has taken on new and more contemporary forms such as matching the traditional top with jeans on the bottom it is still beloved by the Malaysian people for its beauty, versatility and practicality.
Baju kurung are usually made of high-end fabrics such as songket and sarong. The sarong is worn loosly without cutting or changing the shape, which is perfect for the tropical climate of Malaysia. Because the fabric is used as it is, there are a wide variety of different designs, colors, and patterns that can be created. Since Islam is the national religion in Malaysia, Muslim women are also commonly required to wear a headscarf, called a tudung, along with their baju kurung. On the other hand, men wear shirts and pants made of sarong, or silk, and samping, a type of patterned cloth, around their waist.
An Evolving Legacy
Like the baju kurung, Korea’s hanbok was also born from the influence of neighboring societies. As the arts, culture, customs and clothing of ancient China disseminated outward through trade and envoys, the traditional Chinese costume, called hanfu, provided the aesthetic foundation for Korea’s hanbok. Since then, the costume has undergone numerous alterations in style and use over the course of Korea’s long history. For example, while women’s hanbok from the Goguryeo dynasty were loose and flowing from top to bottom, more recent styles from the late Joseon dynasty up to today tend to be more form fitting on top. Nowadays, hanbok are rarely seen in public, as they are typically reserved for formal events such as weddings, during which they are worn only briefly.
Hanbok, known for their beautiful combination of straight and curved lines, utilize hyungbae(animal motifs, such as dragons) to distinguish the wearer’s identity. They are largely categorized into formal and casual clothes, and have different styles for adults and children, as well as each season. Men’s hanbok consists of baji(pants), jeogori(upper garment), baeja(traditional vest), duramagi(overcoat), and gat(wide-brimmed hat). Women’s hanbok are composed of a chima(wrap-around skirt) and jeogori(a top, or blouse). Traditionally, hanbok were often black and white, especially among common people; however,today Koreans enjoy a variety of colors.
Additional layers can be added during Korea’s harsh winters, or removed to accommodate humid summer weather.Despite their many differences, both baju kurum and hanbok reflect the spirit of their respective people, symbolizing not only their unique histories, but also their ability to adapt and survive.
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