KOREA FOUNDATION

My very first taste of mangosteen still leaves a vivid impression in my mind. When I cracked the thick shell, it revealed white flesh resembling a bulb of garlic. The subtle sweetness and tenderness made me wonder, how can a fruit like this exist in the human world? Legend has it that Queen Victoria would grant knighthood to anyone who brought her one, earning it the title ‘queen of fruits.’ So what is the ‘king of fruits?’ That would have to be durian. While mangosteen has the scent of heaven, the first time I tried durian, I was so stunned by the odor that I had difficulty breathing. I immediately understood why consumption of it at hotels is prohibited and strongly enforced by hefty fines. Then, what makes durian the king of fruits? Today, the only reason I can’t eat it is that I can’t get it. It’s disheartening that the price is so expensive. Now, durian has become the king of fruits for me as well.



Durian’s origin is the Malay Peninsula. In Malay, “duri” means thorns. Thailand and Malaysia account for 90 percent of their production. The reason durian is considered foul smelling is simply that it is unfamiliar. However, as you encounter it more frequently, the stench turns into a smell, and after more encounters, it is upgraded to a scent. When the aroma becomes less jarring, its taste will also be more appealing. At supermarkets or department stores, only the pulp is sold separately, but at the local markets, it is sold in a shell full of thorns. When it’s sold, the price includes the shell, but once it is trimmed, the pulp is less than half the total weight. In a way, this makes the fruit seem more expensive. Purchasing enough to share with the whole family easily runs over KRW 20,000. On the other hand, mangosteen is relatively inexpensive. In Thailand, it is 30 baht per kilogram when it’s in season.



Both fruits are seasonal from May to July. Interestingly, durian and mangosteen are believed to have great compatibility. According to ancient Chinese medical practices—which still hold significant influence in the Malay region—certain foods are thought to heat the body, while others cool it down. Durian is said by locals to be ‘heaty,’ and as such, there are taboos against eating too much of it in one sitting, or consuming it with other heating foods, like alcohol. The taboo is so prevalent that anecdotes of death from eating too much durian are even widely reported in local newspapers. On the other hand, mangosteen is believed to cool the body the perfect complement to heaty durian. Southeast Asia is fortunate in that they get to enjoy some of the best fruits in the world, one after another, and have the excuse that it aids their health. When you expand your palate to include the striking tropical flavors of durian and mangosteen, it will send you straight to paradise.