ASEAN on Paper: KONNECT ASEAN Chiang Mai Print Residency

ACH NEWS ASEAN on Paper: KONNECT ASEAN Chiang Mai Print Residency From November 21 to February 18, the KF ASEAN Culture House (KF-ACH) and the ASEAN Foundation (AF; headquartered in Jakarta, Indonesia) will jointly host ASEAN on Paper: KONNECT ASEAN Chiang Mai Print Residency. The exhibition forms part of the KONNECT ASEAN ASEAN-Korea artist exchange program. The KONNECT ASEAN ASEAN-Korea artist exchange program, sponsored by the ASEAN-Korea Cooperation Fund, has administered a variety of projects since 2019 with the aim of furthering awareness and understanding of ASEAN culture in Korea. The upcoming exhibition is the third and last cooperative project under KONNECT ASEAN, following KONNECT ASEAN Print Show: Arise in 2021 and To a Faraway Friend: Beyond Afro-Southeast Asian Affinities in 2022. The works featured in this show were created by 14 artists from Korea and the ASEAN Member States, experimenting with various print techniques on the principal medium of paper. The month-long international residency program that preceded the exhibition was held at seven print studios across Chiang Mai, Thailand. It brought these young artists together in a valuable opportunity to exchange ideas and techniques. Alongside the exhibition, nine paper and prints-themed short films will be screened, as well as a documentary film on the Chiang Mai print residency produced by ASEAN directors with the support of the Busan Film Commission. During the residency, the exchange of divergent traditions and cultures through the artistic medium of paper and the techniques of printmaking gave rise to new creativity and creation. The KF-ACH hopes that visitors to the exhibit will identify with and appreciate this experience as well. • Period: Tuesday, November 21, 2023 to Sunday, February 18, 2024 • Venue: KF ASEAN Culture House, Special Exhibition Hall • Organized by: KF ASEAN Culture House, ASEAN Foundation • In Cooperation with: ASEAN Culture Centre, ASEAN Senior Officials Meeting on Culture and Arts, Busan Film Commission • Sponsored by: Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Korea

Indonesian Muslim Dinner Party, Buka puasa bersama

COLUMN Indonesian Muslim Dinner Party, Buka puasa bersama Written by Bae Dong Sun (Author of Soekarno and Indonesian Modern History) As with my work life in Korea, I participated in quite a few corporate dinner parties after being appointed to work at a large company in Jakarta in the late 1990s. Over time, I learned many cultural lessons: that it isn’t unusual to drink lukewarm beer with ice, for example, and that if employees’ food orders aren’t properly controlled, you may end up spending a lot of money just to be left with a lot of excess food—quite literally biting off more than you can chew. Such scenes were fairly similar to those in Korea and often unfolded in quaint upper-class restaurants in the Menteng area of Central Jakarta, where many ministerial residences were situated, or at modern restaurants in bustling South Jakarta. However, buka puasa held during the fasting month of Ramadan in the 9th month of the Islamic calendar (March 22 to April 21 in 2023) was most impressive. During Ramadan, buka puasa is when Muslims break their fast to eat their first meal of the day, alongside the sound of the adzan Maghrib (call to the Maghrib prayer, held at dusk). Accordingly, during this season, a corporate dinner might be viewed as something closer to a religious event than a business one. Many office workers who want to enjoy buka puasa with their families will hear the adzan Maghrib while stuck on their crowded commute home from work. To mitigate this situation, companies or departments will make dinner reservations for their employees beforehand to match the time of prayer. Therefore, throughout the month, it is not uncommon to see people filling restaurants all over the city, waiting for adzan Maghrib with food already set on the table. Breaking the fast with family, friends, or co-workers is called buka puasa bersama. Of course, as it is a Muslim observance, non-Muslims are not obligated to follow these rules. However, during the month-long fast of Ramadan, people of different nationalities and religions have new opportunities to respect one another and acknowledge their differences. Thus, people who do not practice Islam are often careful not to disturb those who are fasting. Buka puasa is an experience that demonstrates the extent to which people of different beliefs can interact harmoniously and with a sense of appreciation. If you have lived in Indonesia for a long time, you might have a better understanding of why Indonesian Muslims eagerly await Ramadan and the long Eid al-Fitr festival that marks its conclusion, just as others might wait for Chuseok (the Korean autumn harvest festival) or Christmas. In the same vein, fasting further strengthens the sense of community among Muslims, making buka puasa bersama something akin to a daily festival. In such a culture, sharing the buka puasa with Muslim colleagues goes beyond the usual goal of corporate dinners—ostensibly to increase efficiency and feelings of fellowship—to include a deep respect for other religions and ways of life. Nowadays, I also eagerly await buka puasa bersama, the dinners held with those around me during the fasting month of Ramadan.

Working in ASEAN

A Sit-down with Chef John and Proprietor Chae Soogwang of Malaysian Bistro The Makan

INTERVIEW A Sit-down with Chef John and Proprietor Chae Soogwang of Malaysian Bistro The Makan Chae Soogwang, travel geek and owner of Malaysian bistro The Makan, is especially fond of Southeast Asia and its eats. Captivated by Malay cuisine during his travels, Chae returned to Korea with a vision. We met with Chae and Malay chef John Singin Junior (Chef John) of The Makan. Mr. Chae, thank you for having us. Please tell our readers a little about yourself. Hi there, my name’s Chae Soogwang and I’ve been running The Makan in Jamsil, Seoul for the past three years. I wasn’t always an entrepreneur or cook, though. I graduated from Korea University and for a while had a typical white-collar office job. Later, I realized I wanted to do work that was “my own thing”—something that I could enjoy and keep up for a long time. That’s how The Makan was born. Why choose Malay food out of the many diverse cuisines in the world? And how did you and Chef John come to work together? Well, my mind was set on opening a restaurant, preferably one serving Southeast Asian cuisine since I’m personally so fond of it. But there’s already a lot of Vietnamese and Thai food in Korea. Then I remembered the Malay food I’d had in Kota Kinabalu while traveling. Awesome flavors, but still relatively obscure in Korea. So I packed my bags and flew straight to Malaysia to do some research. My legwork took me all through Malaysia, including Kuala Lumpur, Malacca, Penang, and Johor Bahru. I was soon convinced Malay food would work in Korea. Next, I spent some time designing a menu and recruiting the cooks who could create the dishes I had in mind. There were a lot of applicants, and the two professionals I recruited were from a five-star hotel kitchen in Kuala Lumpur. We brought them to Korea on work visas and went to work opening The Makan.Since then, our original kitchen team has had to return home, but they referred two of their colleagues from the same hotel to us. That’s our current team. Chef John, you’ve experienced both Malaysia and Korea. How are the two countries different and alike? Well, in terms of food, there are quite a few differences. To me, the tableware and cutlery that accompany Korean cuisine are quite sophisticated. I also find it interesting how many dishes served at restaurants and eateries are accompanied by kimchi or pickles. The free banchan (side dish) refills were also a surprise. In Malaysia, many of us eat with our hands, and we aren’t really a banchan culture. And the refills aren’t free, of course. Another thing is that Malaysia is a multi-ethnic society. It’s a melting pot of Indian, Malay, and Chinese influences, each bringing their own ingredients and spices. That makes for a lot of unique dishes. What Malaysian dish would you most likely recommend to diners new to Malay food? It would have to be our nasi lemak chicken. It’s similar to how you have rice and banchan here in Korea: fragrant, spiced coconut rice is accompanied by anchovies, peanuts, cucumbers, sambal, and chicken. Obviously the flavors aren’t anything like Korean bibimbap. Sambal is a bit more colorful than your typical gochujang, with more heat, sweetness, and aromas like lemongrass. Also, cooking the rice in coconut milk with pandan leaf gives it a nutty, savory flavor. The peanuts and anchovies are my personal favorite, double-fried and extra crunchy. Nasi lemak is a breakfast favorite back in Malaysia, and in the mornings it’s easy to find commuters eating it at roadside stalls before heading to work. Many aspiring professionals from ASEAN Member States currently work or are hoping to work in Korea. What advice might you give to them? Korea is a great place to live and work. The people are kind, the streets are safe to walk, and the sports, shopping, and tourism infrastructure is impressive. To successfully adapt to work and life here, it’s essential to have a grasp of Korean culture and speak at least some Korean. Watching Korean TV shows might be helpful in that department. Above all, Korea has a ppalli-ppalli (lit. “quickly quickly”) culture. It’s important to keep pace, literally.

Viet Nam’s Royal Court Music Nhã Nhạc: Communicating with Gods and Kings, Transmitting Natural Wisdom

STAGE ASEAN Viet Nam’s Royal Court Music Nhã Nhạc: Communicating with Gods and Kings, Transmitting Natural Wisdom   Nhã nhạc, which translates to “elegant music” in Vietnamese, encompasses diverse styles of music and dance that graced the Vietnamese royal court from the 15th to mid-20th century. This music was primarily performed at events like anniversaries, religious festivals, coronations, funerals, and official banquets, and was integral to both the commencement and conclusion of such ceremonies. Distinct among Viet Nam’s multiple musical genres for its nationwide performances, Nhã nhạc also shares deep connections with the traditional practices of East Asian nations. Historically, performances included an array of singers, dancers, and musicians donned in ornate attire. A grand-scale orchestra, made up of a variety of percussion, wind, and string instruments, was required, with a particular emphasis placed on drumming, Nhã nhạc’s most distinguishing characteristic. Each performer would be required to maintain a high level of concentration as they meticulously adhered to the intricacies of each ceremonial phase. Nhã nhạc flourished during the Lê Dynasty (1427–1788) and reached a peak of institutionalization and systematization under the Nguyễn Dynasty (1802–1945). More than just a symbol of dynastic power and longevity, Nhã nhạc was essential for court ceremonies, transcending its role as mere ritual music. It functioned as an ethereal conduit for communication with deities and monarchs, as well as a means to offer tributes. Additionally, it was instrumental in preserving and conveying esoteric knowledge of the natural world and the cosmos. In recognition of its profound cultural value and the imperative for its preservation, Nhã nhạc was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2008. © Hue Monument Conservation Centre

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Consistently Vibrant and New

TRAVEL AROUND ASEAN Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Consistently Vibrant and New Written by Kim Woo Taek (Author of 30 Travel Destinations in Cambodia through Photos) Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, is often dubbed the “Pearl of Asia.” And yet, many may still be unfamiliar with the city, and indeed with Cambodia itself. The country is changing rapidly; indeed, a simple glance at its urban skyline is enough to demonstrate the remarkable economic growth it has achieved in the past 10 years. The nation’s population is increasing rapidly too, jumping from two million a decade ago to three million today. Phnom Penh became the capital city when Angkor, after 600 years of splendor, fell in 1432. Beginning in 1497, however, Cambodia’s capital was relocated several times due to power conflicts between small parties. It was during the French colonial era (1863–1953) that Phnom Penh was reestablished as the capital city, becoming the center of the nation’s modern history. Located on the banks of the Mekong River, Phnom Penh lies at the center of an X-shape intersection created by three rivers. The inflowing Mekong (and Tonle Sap Lake) lie upstream while the outflowing Mekong and Bassac Rivers flow downstream, past the breadbasket of the Mekong Delta and into the sea. This makes Phnom Penh a great destination for enjoying a river cruise or a cup of tea at a riverside café. Since Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy, another destination recommended for tourists is the Silver Pagoda, a temple established for the royal family. If the purpose of your trip is to relax, you can follow the recently opened expressway to Sihanoukville and Koh Rong, or visit Siem Reap to explore the ruins of Angkor Wat and the Tonle Sap Lake. Alternatively, head to Mondulkiri, which is known for its lush jungle and green fields as well as large-scale farms. Keep in mind that the starting point for a visit to of each of these locations is Phnom Penh. The banks of the Mekong River in Phnom Penh welcome people from around the world. Though the number of visitors fell during the COVID-19 pandemic, the area is coming back to life thanks to the construction of a new airport, the opening of an expressway, and the expansion of airways. Phnom Penh is also gaining popularity as a budget-friendly travel city where some are even able to enjoy a month-long sojourn. Be sure to add the ever-changing, vibrant city of Phnom Penh to your travel bucket list.

Nasi Katok: A Hearty Street Food

TASTY ASEAN Nasi Katok: A Hearty Street Food Written by_Lee Hyojin (Office Worker/Travel Writer, Author of Seizing the Journey Before It’s Too Late) While exploring Brunei Darussalam, it’s common to come across street signs for nasi katok. These eye-catching signs vary from uneven handwriting on wooden planks or cardboard boxes to professionally printed placards. Despite having phonetic resemblance to the name of the popular Korean mobile messenger KakaoTalk, often shortened to “katalk,” nasi katok is in fact a beloved Bruneian rice dish. In Malay, “nasi” means rice, and “katok” means knock. The origin of nasi katok can be traced back to a simple yet ingenious concept where someone started selling home-packed meals of rice and basic side dishes for just one dollar. The dish’s affordability made it a hit among budget-conscious students and workers. Customers would knock on the vendor’s door at any hour to purchase these meals, hence the name nasi katok. As its popularity increased, many restaurants began to sell the dish, and chain stores such as Nasi Katok Kaka emerged. These chains offer diverse menus that go beyond the original dish and somewhat resemble Gimbap Cheonguk (Gimbap Heaven), a popular Korean fast-food franchise renowned for its quick, savory meals and extensive array of affordable gimbap (Korean seaweed rice rolls). Recent cultural exchanges have introduced nasi katok in Korea as a quintessential Bruneian dish, often labeled as “chicken rice.” Yet, the original dish is deceptively simple, consisting of rice, a boiled egg, fried small anchovies, and a dollop of sambal, all carefully wrapped in smooth, coated paper. The rice used is distinctively non-sticky and fluffy, and the small fried anchovies are saltier and crunchier compared to Korea’s stir-fried anchovies. The sauce known as sambal originated in Indonesia but is also integral to the cuisines of Brunei Darussalam, Malaysia, Singapore, and Sri Lanka. Crafted from a blend of pepper, chili, minced onion, garlic, shrimp, and fermented seafood, its unique combination of taste, aroma, and heat varies from recipe to recipe. Much like the individuality of household recipes, the flavor of nasi katok can vary significantly, influenced by the particular anchovies and sambal sauce used, as well as the personal touch of the cook. Although one-dollar nasi katok stalls have become less common in Brunei Darussalam, the dish remains an affordable indulgence. The price may be slightly higher now, but it’s still a budget-friendly and filling choice for many. Beyond nasi katok, Bruneian street food offers an array of other delightful options. The vibrant Gadong Night Market, a renowned hotspot in the eponymous commercial district, is a haven for food enthusiasts. Here, you can savor skewers grilled over open charcoal flames, irresistible banana fritters that grow more appealing with each bite, colorful rice cakes known as kuih, or sugarcane juice freshly extracted with a noisy machine. The captivating allure of Brunei Darussalam’s endless variety of street food often stops travelers in their tracks, adding rich, flavorful dimensions to their travel experience.