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Once deemed obsolete, Korean traditional liquor is attracting modern drinkers as it is served in new and varied ways. Popular variations are cocktails that evoke memories of the fragrance, flavor, and color of time-honored drinks. Gochang is made of sweet Korean raspberry wine, or bokbunja; Putsarang, which means “puppy love,” uses Andong soju; Healing has a base of gamhongno, an herb-infused liquor; Jindo is made of gromwell wine; and Geumsan uses ginseng wine. Since 2014, all these drinks have appeared on the state examination for certified bartenders.
  Traditional liquor generally refers to alcoholic beverages that are produced according to traditional recipes and reflect the culture and natural environment of Korea. The Liquor Tax Law defines them as wines and spirits made of regional produce in Korea or created by winemakers who are licensed to produce state-designated Important Intangible Cultural Properties, city- or province-designated cultural heritage, or as liquors produced by recognized Food Grand Masters. However, with new distilleries catering to young consumers and overseas connoisseurs with a diverse range of high-quality items, the notion of “only the old is traditional” is fading.
  The traditional liquors available in the market today comprise both fermented and distilled types. The former are made of grains or fruits and include unrefined rice wines, refined rice wines, and fruit wines. Clear liquor soju is made by distilling these wines. In 2009, makgeolli, one of the better-known kinds of unrefined rice wine, sparked a resurgence of interest in traditional drinks among young drinkers. It is produced by fermenting a mixture of malt, water, and steamed grains such as rice, glutinous rice, or barley. It resembles milk and tastes both nutty and sweet. Rich in fiber, protein, and lactic acid bacteria, makgeolli is also recognized as a health food, and versions flavored with banana, peach, or pineapple are being well received in domestic markets as well as abroad. Refined wine, which is often used at ancestral rituals, is a clear liquid obtained after the lees of fermented wine settle down. Its soft, mild flavor pairs nicely with a fatty meal, and it is also used for cooking meat and fish to remove odor and improve texture.
  Soju is probably the best-known and most popular liquor among Koreans. Most consumers drink diluted soju, made by mixing water with alcohol from potatoes, sweet potatoes, or other starchy grains, which is quite different from the traditional distilled kind. Diluted soju has been manufactured since the 1920s, but traditional soju, as evidenced by the Andong Soju and Munbaeju variations, has a longer history dating back to the Goryeo Kingdom (918–1392). Today, traditional soju is becoming increasingly popular for its fine quality and all-natural ingredients. With its simple and subtle flavor and high alcohol content, it is favored by bartenders as a cocktail base akin to whiskey and vodka.
  Traditional liquors are gaining the appreciation of consumers for their distinctive tastes and fragrances, which vary depending on origin, content, and recipe. They are changing in step with the changing food culture and in accordance with modern tastes. Next time you are in the mood for a drink, try some traditional liquor instead of the usual beer or wine, and savor the experience of new flavors and aromas.