Anyone who is friends with their hairdresser is bound to be happy.
There’s nothing more fortunate than having a lasting relationship
with a good hairdresser. Lee Chun-suk is a hairdresser with a
particular talent for turning customers into old friends. The way she
does it is simple and ordinary.
Lee Chun-suk gets to her workplace in Imundong,
eastern Seoul, at 10 o’clock in the
morning. The sign out front reads “Lee
Jeeun Salon.” The name is the one she chose for
herself, not her given name. In the center of the
100-square-meter space is a mirrored wall with
four chairs facing it on either side. The time it takes
for all eight chairs to be filled with customers is
different each day. Yesterday, there was a constant
stream of customers from the time the doors
opened and lunch had to be delayed. But today, the
customers all came flooding in at around the same
time in the afternoon.
Regulars Catch Up and Unwind
In one corner of the shop there is a large table.
It’s set up as a resting place for customers. People
waiting their turn, people with their hair all wrapped
up in cling film while the hair dye takes effect, people
with colorful rods of different sizes dangling
from their hair; they all sit around this table, flicking
through magazines, looking at their phones, or
enjoying a sweet nap. On the table are snacks and
refreshments like coffee, fruit, sweets, biscuits, and
chocolate. Apparently, in the winter there is even
a box of sweet potatoes kept in the corner and a
small oven on the table to roast them in.
Lee Chun-suk, who turned 62 this year, began hairdressing as a profession
when she was 26 and hasn’t stopped since. After setting up shop in nearby
Seokgwan-dong and working there for many years, she had to move to
Imun-dong when her old neighborhood was knocked down for redevelopment.
For decades, salon owner Lee
Chun-suk has placed the greatest
importance on keeping each
and every strand healthy when
styling her customers’ hair. She
believes that making a good
first impression relies on having
healthy hair.
Despite the move, most of her customers came with her and have remained
loyal regulars over the years. For them the salon is not just a place to get a haircut
or a scalp massage, it’s a place to share the occasional snack, catch up on
gossip, and de-stress.
“We’ve probably got more customers who come to our salon from far and
wide than from our immediate surroundings. They come from places not far off
like Uijeongbu, but also from cities as far away as Cheonan, Daejeon, and even
Gwangju. You see, they don’t come just to have their hair done. They come to
meet people, to talk about this and that....” Lee explains with a bright smile.
The Korean term for someone who works with hair has long been miyongsa,
meaning “beauty technician.” Lately, however, a growing number of people
in this profession are using the English term “hair designer.” But, for Lee, the
Korean term with its meaning of “a person skilled in making the whole appearance
beautiful” is still more appealing. In the same way, Lee’s real name “Chunsuk”
feels warm and familiar now, though back in the old days, she felt like it
was too old-fashioned to put on the sign outside her salon and so chose “Jeeun”
as a more modern-sounding name.
With her robust body, agile movements, and radiant complexion, it’s difficult
to tell Lee’s age at first sight. “I guess I have been so busy creating beautiful
hairstyles for my customers over the years that I haven’t had time to age,” she
jokes. “When I’m working with hair, I feel calm and at peace. And then, when I’m
putting the finishing touches on someone’s hairstyle, I feel a certain joy — a profound
satisfaction.”
What’s Even More Important than Style
The first thing she takes note of when she sees
someone is the state of their hair.
“I’m really particular about the health of my customers’
hair. I won’t let them have a perm more
than three times a year,” she says. “They’re my customers,
so if their hair gets all frazzled it’s me who
has to deal with the damage. The thing is, no matter
how great their style or how nice their clothes are,
unhealthy hair makes a person’s whole appearance
shabby.”
Lee has plenty to say on the science of beautiful
hair.
“Hair ages and gets worn down. If you look at it
under a microscope, the core of each hair is full of
holes. For hair to be healthy, you need to fill those
holes with good proteins and keep it slightly acidic.
If someone’s hair is healthy, all it takes is a good cut
to give it a great look. The way hair is dried is important,
too. The best way is to bend your head forward
and towel dry, softly but thoroughly.”
When she was younger and seizing every opportunity,
Lee even ran a separate salon inside a wedding
hall in the well-off neighborhood of Gahoedong.
She made so much money that she put millions
of won in the church collection basket and
enjoyed the luxury of being a VIP customer at her
favorite department store. “With money, after a
certain point, it doesn’t matter how much you earn
because it has no meaning of its own. I realized that
the only thing that remains is the moment of satisfaction
when you have created a beautiful hairstyle
for a customer. Most customers fall asleep while
I’m doing their hair. Then, whether I’m cutting or
giving a head massage or whatever, I feel totally
relaxed too,” she says.
A Vocation Discovered at an Early Age
Lee Chun-suk grew up in a seaside village near
Gangneung. She already enjoyed styling other
people’s hair as a high school student and would
always be combing her friends’ hair. “Most days,
Chun-suk would re-do my pony tail for me. It would
always look prettier and more stylish when she did
it,” recalls a customer and old high school classmate. Another friend from her
home village says, “I just couldn’t forget Chun-suk’s skills, so since we were
young she’s the only person I’ll have do my hair.”
Lee explains how she started out. “After graduating from high school, I was
working in an office when a relative brought me a set of electric hair tongs as
a gift from a trip to Japan. If I styled my hair with them in the morning, people
would tell me all day long how amazing my hair looked. It got to the point where
other female employees would come to the accounts department where I
worked, asking me to do their hair. I wondered if it might be a better way for me
to make a living, so I took evening classes after work. Back then, the list of candidates
who passed the hairdresser certification exam was posted on the notice
board outside Seoul City Hall. Two-hundred people took the exam and only 11
got through. The competition was that fierce.”
Lee opened her first salon in 1981 and the years have since passed by in a
flash. Women who frequented her salon when they were pregnant would show
up again as mothers with their babies in tow. The babies would cry, but it didn’t
bother Lee because she had also raised her own two children in the salon. Her
daughter, now a university student, stops by whenever she has time to lend a
hand.
Always Learning
“Including the assistants, we have seven employees. Three of them have
been with us for over 20 years. They all have their own regulars,” Lee says. “I
don’t pay them a salary, but I simply provide the tools, products, and the space.
They operate like individual businesses and contribute a small part of what they
earn to the running of the salon. They’re experienced and good at what they do,
so they probably take home about 3.5 to 4 million won a month. I earn much
less than that. I’m not as young as I was, so really I’m grateful when regulars
come in asking for me to do their hair. That’s what keeps me at it.”
When Lee first opened her salon, “Yoon Si-nae hair,” the sphinx-like disco
hairstyle sported by the popular singer, was the most coveted look. Whether
the hair was permed or set, hair styling was all about creating volume, and the
skills of hairdressers were judged accordingly. It was a time when just a perm
was not enough; it had to be a perm that emphasized the curls for maximum
effect and kept its shape for as long as possible. People walking the streets with
naturally straight hair were considered completely lacking in style. Gradually,
however, preferences have been changing towards a more natural look, and a
growing number of people these days avoid the perfectly styled salon look. Of
course, Lee’s preferences have changed with the times, too.
“Being a hairdresser isn’t just about working with hair, it’s about touching people’s hearts. Whether
customers chatter while they’re having their hair done or stay completely silent, the hair salon is a
space of healing.”
Lee talks with a first-time customer about how she wants her
hair done. With each customer, Lee’s task begins by listening
carefully to their ideas and considering what will work best.
“If we are not to lose out to the big name salon franchises, small independent
salons like ours have to be one step ahead of the trends. You have to cut
your customers’ hair the way they want it, but at the same time, the results have
to exceed their expectations. Even with perming, new techniques and technologies
are being developed every year. Cutting techniques change even more often. You have to keep learning and mastering new
skills to give your customers a new and fresh feeling
every time they come by,” Lee says, adding that
just recently, she attended a seminar to learn the
hairstyles that are popular in Italy this year.
She goes on, “Most of my customers are older
women, so it’s important to make their hair look
lightweight. ‘Light and youthful!’ That’s the motto
for this year. The more conservative a customer is
about her hair, the more important it is to cut it with
the latest techniques. That’s the only way to make it
look somehow attractive when they style their hair
at home. For customers who don’t like change or following trends, it’s the subtle gift of a slight change. Even with the same short
style, the way you cut it makes a world of difference.”
The proportion of customers who simply entrust their hair to the hairdresser’s
hands and those who ask for a particular shape or style is always about
fifty-fifty. Many people come in asking to have their hair done exactly like that of
an actress or model seen in a magazine. At such times, if it’s a style that won’t
suit the person’s features or facial shape, the hairdresser needs to know how to
gently persuade her to go for something else.
Just by feeling someone’s hair, Lee can now tell whether that person is the
stubborn type or can embrace a new style. “Being a hairdresser isn’t just about
working with hair, it’s about touching people’s hearts,” she says. “Whether customers
chatter while they’re having their hair done or stay completely silent, the
hair salon is a space of healing. It’s for the same reason that I set up such a big
resting space and lay on plenty of snacks. For a perm or color treatment, customers
have to spend two or three hours in here. At least for that time, I want
them to be able to relax and feel like, ‘Ah! This is the most comfortable place in
the world!’”
Tomorrow, Lee Chun-suk will again begin her day opening the doors of her
salon at 10 o’clock in the morning and laying out snacks for her customers.