[The World in Korea]Incheon’s Chinatown: Encountering China in Korea
Incheon’s Chinatown was formed in the wake of the opening of Incheon
Port in 1883 and the designation of the city as extraterritoriality of
Qing Dynasty China the following year. Early Chinese settlers built
houses and stores in the area and gradually expanded their business
zone, which prospered until the first half of the 1930s. Their
businesses suffered after the enforcement of measures limiting
foreigners’ possession of land in 1967, but they eventually recovered
after the establishment of diplomatic relations between Korea and
China in the 1980s. Today, the town is one of the most popular tourist
spots in Incheon.
Among several time-honored buildings in Incheon’s Chinatown,
Gonghwachun, the birthplace of jajangmyeon, or noodles in black bean
sauce, is a prime attraction. The former restaurant was opened in 1908
by a Chinese immigrant from Shandong Province. The restaurant had to
close its doors in 1983, but was reopened as the Jajangmyeon Museum in
2012. Above its entrance, a sign continues to show the restaurant’s
name in yellow characters against a black background.
If you walk deeper into the town, you will find the Jungsan Overseas
Chinese School, whose building was once used as the consulate of Qing
Dynasty China. Comprising institutions of elementary and secondary
education, this school was founded in 1902, making it the oldest
overseas Chinese school in Korea. It is located next to Samgukji Mural
Street, which features 160 murals depicting scenes from the Records of
the Three Kingdoms, a famous historical text by third-century Chinese
writer Chen Shou. Not far from the schools is Paeru No. 2, the second
gate of Incheon’s Chinatown, beside which is the Korean-Chinese
Cultural Center that exhibits various items related to Chinese culture
and provides opportunities to try on Chinese attire and sip some
delicious tea.
The area also features buildings dating back to the Japanese colonial
period, one of which is the Incheon Open Port’s Modern Architecture
Exhibition Hall, which used to house the Incheon branch of the 18th
Bank of Japan. Through miniature buildings and photographs, the museum
allows visitors to travel through time to the Chinatown and Jemulpo
Port area of a century ago. Incheon’s Chinatown is rich not only in
historical sites but also in food and delicacies offered by scores of
Chinese restaurants, bakeries, and cafés. Particularly popular among
the varied dishes served here are white jajangmyeon, skewered lamb,
traditional Chinese mooncakes and balloon bread, and dumplings.
Written by Lee Haeng-rim
Illustrated by EEWHA